Tarra Bulga NP | White Woman’s Waterhole


I left the Foster campground and the friends I had made there to look for a town to resupply on my way to Tarra-Bulga National Park, I hadn’t decided to go to Tarra-Bulga until I was well on the way, I felt the best thing to do is head East, toward Sale and find somewhere nice along the way – everything is nice around here so I didn’t feel any doubt in stumbling across a thing.

I was so comfortable at the previous camp with its toilets, seclusion and loving atmosphere that I felt a pang of anxiety as I got on the road – attachment can be so subtle and is a good lesson to enjoy and to be always willing to let go.

The rainforest awaited and the faithful chariot scrambled up the narrow winding road. As I was climbing, the week’s wet weather was descending, a flow of crystal clear water making its way down the mountain. The road carved alongside the stream and sometimes crossed to give me a magical view of the river. I kept on and after passing a few tempting caravan parks I found myself at the first stop, the Tarra Valley forest walk car park – a beautiful short walk but my interest waned and I moved on to a more diverse section of the park to spend a few hours amongst the mountain ash, blackwood and dense fern.

Down the other side gave me a beautiful view over open plains as the misty pine plantation forest began to angle down the slopes. I considered making camp along one of the many quiet service roads. Finding the perfect morning view would not be too hard however it was icy cold outside and I wanted to set up a home for a few days instead of bouncing around one nighters.

I found myself at a place called White Woman’s Waterhole, tall eucalypts and flat open space everywhere – perfect. On the second day the sun shone through and the contrasting blue sky thrown between towering trees was a marvellous sight, I jumped on my bike and went for a ride down the dirt road – with an ulterior motive than just a scenic pedal – employment time was getting close and I needed to check my emails. I hit the nearest area with service, the township of Won Wron, several houses on one acre blocks and a town hall. I opened the laptop and to my dismay found that the work I had been directing my plans to for the past few weeks was postponed until July – flexibility is becoming a necessary trait in this journey and through the initial disappointment came a fast acceptance, this meant more freedom and I looked forward to finding a fruit growing area and connecting with some backpackers. Five minutes later, an email came through, 11th May job in Sydney if you are interested – although I accepted it I couldn’t help but wonder why, the money is excellent giving me around a month’s travel on a week’s work but the social opportunities with like minded travellers is next to zero, I find myself very lucky to be able to have such a decision but a decision it still is. If I don’t accept future work will future bones cease to be thrown?

The other reason for the bike journey was to look for water, I was not sure how much tap water I had in the van tank and as this water was to be for washing I did not want to use the drinking water. I found no taps and no clean sources, so made my way back along that dusty road. I came to a farmhouse I had passed and got the urge to pull in. The farmer was quite happy to let me fill a bag of water and we had a chat about the area and my travels. A few days later I would call in to leave a bottle of wine on his front porch.

On a communique from a friend there was a lovely being to hang out with in Sale, Sian is a manager and radio presenter for ABC Gippsland, we shared a wonderful meal and went down to the studio for a radio interview, my first time in front of a microphone. After this short stint in stardom I witnessed a phone interview with a doctor in Nepal over the recent earthquakes, was interesting to hear the accounts and experiences first hand.

Next up I head over the snowy mountains on the Great Alpine Road (all roads are great), stopping at Omeo to enquire the driving conditions before re-exploring Bright and the surrounding beauty that area gives. Then a visit to the farm from my youth and my father, this leg of the journey gives me great excitement.

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